Saanen mustard is a typical Saanenland speciality and is served with pork or cheese, among other things. Every family has its own recipe. Andrea cooks the spicy mustard according to the recipe of her grandmother, Helene von Siebenthal. To do this, she uses puréed cherries from Wimmis, an ingredient with a long history. We are happy to pass these on to you below.
When exactly the Wimmisers started cooking puréed cherries is not possible to ascertain. The climate in Wimmis is ideal for cherry trees. "Chirschmues", as the puréed cherries are called, was mainly reserved for people who owned their own trees, with rather large quantities of cherries, and also enough wood. Until well into the 20th century, puréed cherries were very popular among all parts of the population – the Wimmisers added spices and used them to complement their everyday dishes.
In the mid-1960s, when welfare to prevent alcoholism became interested in "Chirschmues", production increasingly became a public event. The motto of the alcoholism welfare institutions was "purée instead of schnapps". The "Action Committee" bought the cherries and let them spoil on a large scale. Since then, the event has developed into a popular custom organised by Wimmis Tourism – provided the cherries are of the right quality and quantity. In 1971 and 1982, the event had to be cancelled.
The production of puréed cherries is very complex: the cherries delivered by the farmers (in 2020, they got approx. CHF 3.50 per kilo), are weighed, sorted and selected. The 20 or so farmers from the region mainly supply the local variety "Schöne von Einigen" ("beauties from Einigen"), also popularly known as Plüderkirsche.
The de-stalked cherries are then mixed in a barrel with an oversized mixer; the pulp is crushed, but the stones remain intact. And this is fortunate, because if the hydrocyanic acid from the stones were to escape, the puréed cherries would be inedible! The resulting "cherry soup" is filled into a linen sack and vigorously skimmed off with two sticks. The juice runs into the vessels below. The fruit fibres and stones remaining in the cloth are disposed of.
The collected juice is then sieved and boiled down in a 300-litre copper pot over a slowly burning fire for a good fifteen hours. It has to be stirred constantly, because the juice must not burn, otherwise all the work will have been in vain! The sugar content and the stage of ripeness of the cherries determine the exact duration of the boiling-down time.
The mixture is cooled down in the pot, and, again, must be stirred constantly. As soon as the mixture has cooled down completely, you can fill the finished cherry purée into glasses. The finished purée has a very long shelf life. The author of an article reports on a cherry purée that was preserved in 1944 and forty years later was still as fresh as it was on day one.
Five kilos of cherries make around one kilo of purée. On average, 2500 kg of cherries are processed into 500 kg of cherry purée each year.
Of course, the Wimmisers mainly consume their puréed cherries themselves, including those who have emigrated, who take a part of their old homeland with them to their new place of life by taking the purée. But people in the immediate vicinity as well, e.g., in Simmental and Kandertal, know and buy this speciality.
Those who make "Spitzbuben" (jam biscuits) in Wimmis often use puréed cherries instead of the usual four-fruit or raspberry jam. It is also used as a filling in biscuit rolls.
In the Saanenland, Saanen mustard is made from puréed cherries and enjoyed with pork or cheese. But it also tastes good with jacket potatoes, whey cheese, "Mehlrost" pies, game dishes or Älplermagronen ("alpine herder's macaroni"). Puréed cherries are also used as a home remedy, for example, against sore throats and colds. They recommend insalivating a level teaspoon every hour in your mouth and swallowing it slowly. They are also eaten to stimulate digestion or to treat stomach problems: stir one teaspoon in lukewarm water (half a glass) and drink slowly, on an empty stomach in the morning or in the evening after eating.
Diabetics appreciate puréed cherries as a spread, because they are made without sugar.